Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Skim milk, ahoy!
No other news, though I'm going to Nice and Antibes for the weekend to visit my roommate from MU, so I'll probably have news about that next week.
Monday, January 28, 2008
A very busy week in Avignon
Now, on to a very long update about a very long week.
First, a moment for a very superficial but still important observation about
I’m also really enjoying only having classes four days a week. I’m sure with traveling that I’ll be doing in the future, I’ll appreciate it even more, but even now I’m enjoying that the extra time on weekends. L’Institut is open on Fridays, so I can go in and get some work done, as well as enjoy the internet access before the weekend really starts. It’s also a good meeting place for students who have to work on projects, as I do.
The big news of the week is that I switched host families. I was having a very hard time at the other house, and once they found out I was leaving, it got even harder for me. Thankfully that’s all over with. I’m now living outside of the city walls (no protection from Germanic tribes after all, unless they come while I’m in school), which is nice. It’s a little more spread out and I feel like I can breathe a little (please note that it is still just as crowded as your average Chicago neighborhood, and that should give you an idea of how cramped the city is). I take a bus to and from school, which is pretty easy, and L’Institut pays for it. I went to the transportation office today to buy my bus pass, which is like a Chicago Card in that you get to wave it at a sensor instead of putting it the thing next to the turnstile for it to deduct the money. I got told by the person who gave me the pass that my French was excellent, and I felt like saying, “I’m probably slaughtering your language, but thank you just the same!”
The buses here are much nicer at the ones at home, and they’re exceptionally clean. It takes about 5-10 minutes to get into the city, and then it’s just a one or two minute walk to the school. Yesterday I left the city around 6:20 and it didn’t take long to get home at all, but I discovered today that
I went to work out at a gym today (Friday). Through L’Institut, each student has a certain amount of money that can be used for extracurricular activities—dance lessons, music lessons, yoga, museum visits, and many other options including an option of just getting free tickets to concerts, plays, and movies. I ended up deciding to get the gym membership, even though it means that’s the only thing I can do. Going today was a very interesting experience. I got semi-lost on the way there, but I called L’Institut to figure out where I’d gone wrong, and it turns out I had the right building that I’d been looking for (3h) but that the number for the gym was actually 34. They draw their fours and ones differently here—ones look like fours or sevens, and fours look like h’s.
Upon arriving, I couldn’t find anyone at the front desk to show me around, so I just hopped on an elliptical and started working out. Next time I go I want a tour, because there’s a ton of open space and I don’t know if we’re allowed to use that or if it’s for classes. Also, I wouldn’t mind knowing where the locker rooms are. There are very few weight machines that I recognized, though there were some that looked both new and familiar. However, the sign on them said we weren’t allowed to use them. I have hopes that they change that soon, because I haven’t the slightest idea how to use the other machines. I also realized I had a problem with the free weights: all the numbers were in kilograms. It’s little things like that that really throw me off here. I can deal with the language, but smaller things tend to bother me much more. The elliptical was a little bizarre as well. You couldn’t change the incline, and it told me that after 40 minutes I’d only burned 300 calories, when I’ve been doing ellipticals for a year and a half and I can always burn 450 calories in 40 minutes. I can’t decide whether the machine here was lying to me or whether I was lied to back home. Also, wiping down a machine after using it seems to be a foreign concept. Let’s hope that Merca doesn’t exist in
A food update: If I let myself, it would be incredibly easy to eat Nutella on a freshly baked baguette for lunch every day. As it is, I have let myself buy neither a container of Nutella (which tastes so much better here) nor any baguettes, and instead I watch enviously as the others eat it at lunch. There’s a grocery store called Shopi not far from L’Institut, and the school has refrigerators where we can keep our food for lunches. Thus far I’ve bought fresh fruit, Greek yogurt, whole-grain bread, a low-fat chèvre (goat cheese) spread, and the only sandwich meat they have here: ham. I am eating quite healthily, and while I’m not completely immersing myself in the French food, it’s not completely American, either. Of the many cheeses I have tried, I adore chèvre (I knew that before coming here), and am quite fond of Brie and Roquefort (which tastes like blue cheese to me, but better). The only cheese I decidedly don’t like is Camembert. My wine exploration has been much less exciting. They often leave out wine for us to drink at lunch, and the one time I was feeling adventurous, I poured myself half a sip, drank it, made a face and went to get myself some water. Breakfast has been a little random, but I’m determined to find a healthy cereal here that doesn’t have dried fruit in it. I had mentioned to Mirielle, my new host mother, that I liked cereal in the mornings, and so she very kindly bought some for me. Unfortunately, she bought me something called “Pétals Sucré”. It’s essentially an off brand of Frosted Flakes, and I ate it with much guilt, as I never eat sugary cereal. I tried to tell myself that it was probably no worse than pancakes, but I nevertheless felt quite sure that it was going to rot my teeth. However, I had a banana on the cereal, and I also had a Clementine for breakfast, plus an apple with lunch and both a pumpkin soup and cauliflower at dinner dinner. That was essentially for you, dearest Mother: I’m eating my fruits and vegetables! I’ve gotten advice on my skim milk hunt (for starters, it does exist here) and when I go to Shopi next week I’ll be in search of both skim milk and healthy, dried fruit-less cereal.
Having to speak French all the time, I’ve become hyper-aware of my flaws. I’m not sure if I had these problems before coming to
That was your French grammar lesson for the day, and I am now going to take a shower before watching the European Figure Skating Championships on TV. I squealed when I saw that they were going to be on (with commentary by Philippe Candeloro!), and Mirielle wanted to know what could possibly be so exciting. She said I could watch them, and I’m very much looking forward to it. Also worth noting before I go is that I’m missing the US National Figure Skating Championships I think for the first time since 1995. This is very, very traumatic for me. My obsession with watching skating on TV has declined since 2002 when the ISU went crazy and decided that no one could know which judges gave what marks, but I always kept watching US Nationals since the money went to USFSA, not the ISU. I’m feeling quite sad about that, but I’ll have to console myself with Philippe*.
That’s about it for today (Friday). Tomorrow L’Institut takes us to Nîmes to see Pont du Gard (which I think is just an old Roman aqueduct, as that’s all they show in the pictures) and then to a Musée du Bonbons (if it really is a candy museum, I’m going to be pumped), and I’ll add information about that before I post this Monday.
*For those of you who perhaps weren’t quite as obsessed with figure skating in 1998 as I was, Philippe Candeloro won the bronze medal at the 1998 Olympics (Behind Ilia Kulik of Center Stage fame and Elvis Stojko, but before Todd Eldredge) with a Three Musketeers program where he pretended to sword-fight during his straight-line footwork sequence.
Saturday Evening:
The excursion with L’Institut was a lot of fun, but I’m now completely exhausted. I took an 8AM bus into the city and ended up arriving far earlier than I needed to. I wandered around the city for a bit, then ran into a few students from L’Institut at a café. I joined them for a chocolat chaud that was not as good as the one I had my first day here, but it was still better than American hot chocolate. Most of the other students ended up walking by us, so we walked en masse to the train station where the tour bus met us. After having a few people get lost, we were able to leave before too much time had passed for Nîmes, a town that’s a certain number of kilometers away, but since none of us know how far a kilometer is, the number meant nothing to us. Once there, we went with the tour guide to an old arena built by the Romans for bull fighting. It was absolutely huge, and it was really cool to see. After that, we went to see a temple that had been built there by a Roman Emperor before the tour guide gave us about two hours on our own to eat lunch and explore the town. I stopped at the Tourism Office with several other girls, and the women there recommended going to the gardens not far from where we were—this was an excellent recommendation. The gardens are part of an old palace, and it was absolutely beautiful. I can’t get over my surprise of seeing flowers blooming in January, and the architecture was incredible. We explored around there for a while, then stumbled across a temple built for Diana. We spent about an hour of our time there, and it was absolutely incredible.
We started to look for somewhere to eat, but one girl and I decided to find something to eat later as we were sidelined by a papeterie/librarie—essentially a book store with loads of books, craft supplies, and notebooks. I had a blast looking around, and just barely restrained myself from buying a Le Petit Nicolas calendar. Le Petit Nicolas is a French children’s chapter book that I read my senior year in high school, and it’s absolutely adorable. It’s about this little boy, Nicolas, who is probably 7 years old, and all the exploits he and his friends get into. I’m determined to find a copy here to buy, and I’d rather have that than a calendar, so I’ll have to wait until I find that. We stopped to get paninis on our way back to the bus, and they were delicious. Paninis here come on freshly baked baguettes, and the baguettes make everything else taste better.
The bus then set off for Pont du Gard, which is, as I thought, an old Roman aqueduct. However, it’s incredibly better in person than in the photos. It’s absolutely enormous, and the area around it was gorgeous. It runs over the Rhône, and there are lots of hiking paths around the area to follow. We spent a lot of time running around the different paths and taking pictures from good viewpoints. Everything was so gorgeous, and I love seeing green plants in January! We only got to spend about an hour and a half there, and I definitely would like to go back again so that I could spend more time on the hiking paths. I really was amazed by how beautiful everything was, and I took enough pictures to prove it.
After that, we set off for the Musée du Bonbons, a candy museum run by Haribo, a European candy company. It was rather like the museum in
Tomorrow I’m going to walk to church in town to see how long the walk takes, and then I’m going to grab some lunch down there before coming back to work on homework. I’m going to try a different church at a later time to see if I can find a more lively or upbeat congregation, but based on what I’ve heard about the religious in
Monday, January 21, 2008
More news from Avignon
A few more things about
L’Institut Americain is located in an old chapel that was built in the 13th century. Various pieces (including a wall or two and the ceiling) have collapsed since that time and been rebuilt, but the two long side walls are still original. I was talking with another student yesterday about a bunch of marks that we noticed on the walls that looked a little like Greek letters. They were all over the place, but we were trying to figure out what they meant. He went to ask the Director of the program, who explained to us that when the chapel was built, each person who worked on it had a certain mark that they would scratch on a stone. At the end of the day, their pay was determined by how many stones with their mark had been added. She also said that historians can use the symbols when comparing different buildings. For example, they can look at Le Palais de Papes, also in
Classes started this week and they seem fine. Two of the classes I was going to take, one that was a Philosophy and one that’s a French writing course, were scheduled at the same time, so I had to pick between the two. I eventually decided on the French writing course, not because it interested me any more than the other one did, but rather because I’d be required to take it for my French minor at some point, and I decided it’d be better to do it here rather than back at Marquette, especially since there are Philosophy classes at MU that will interest me more than the current one does. I’m also taking a Translation class, which is taught by an Anglophone and Francophone professor. Considering I’m a Writing-Intensive English major, it’s really interesting for me to talk about the nuances of words and meanings, so I’ll probably enjoy that. My Political Science class is going to be a lot of work, but the subject matter seems interesting. Economics seems very interesting as well, and I’m looking forward to everything that we’re going to learn with that. I’ve been working on the first reading, and it seems to build really well off of my Comparative Politics class from last semester. Because two of my classes were offered at the same time, I decided to pick up another class just so that I’ll have more to do here. It should count towards my French minor, so even though it wouldn’t be my first choice of classes to take (It’s on French film and culture), it won’t be a complete waste.
I’ve finally stopped getting lost on my way to and from L’Institut, which is a blessing. Because of that, I’m slowly starting to expand the number of places I’ll go to, and I’ve found some nice spots in the city. I’ve gone running around the city walls a few times, which is quite hazardous (lots of traffic, but it’s still easier than running in the city). Thursday evening, I went out to eat at a place called La Flush (We thought the name was so funny that we couldn’t resist going inside) with three other girls from L’Institut. The food was pretty good, as well as being cheap, so we’ve discussed the possibility of making that our place to go during the one night a week we don’t eat the hosts. While there, we got hit on by a drunk guy who was speaking English very poorly to us. His friends kept apologizing for the guy’s weirdness, but he wanted us to go out with him after eating. We kept trying to explain that we could speak French perfectly well, so there was no reason for him to keep trying out his English on us, but that couldn’t quite get through the haze of alcohol he had consumed. It should be no surprise that we did not join him that evening.
Today (Saturday the 19th) I also wandered around the city for a while. This morning my hosts told me they were leaving for the weekend, which was a little sudden. I went to Les Halles, a market a bit like the Public Market in
Tomorrow I’m going to go for a run in the morning and then try and find my way to a church. If I get lost on my way (it’s not unlikely), I have the schedule for all the masses in the city and which churches they’re at, so I can just keep moving along until I make it to a church in time for a mass. I’m looking forward to seeing how much I can understand. They have French masses at MU once a semester that I’ve been to before, but a real French mass will be quite different, I imagine. After that I’ll probably just look around for a quiet place to sit and read—I might go back to the island, since I really liked it there. I also have some work due at the end of next week, and I’m hoping to get that done this weekend. I’m not feeling very well due to a cough and a sore throat. I’m hoping it doesn’t get too much worse, though I’ll admit I’m not optimistic. I’m going to have a quiet dinner on my own now, then do a little work and be off to sleep.
I’m adding this on Sunday. I went to church this morning at
This afternoon I walked over to the island again with another girl from IAU. It’s much nicer over there, away from the cramped city. Some guy was pushing his piano along the walkway next to the Rhône, and he ended up parking it and then starting to play for everyone who was walking along, and that was pretty cool. I did some reading for school and we talked for a while, but when the sun started to set it got a little cooler, so we walked back. It wasn’t quite as warm today as it was yesterday, but it was still quite nice (and much better than the high of 10 that was forecast for
One of the things that bothers me a little bit here is how infrequently the students speak French amongst themselves. Inside L’Institut, we’re allowed to speak English between noon and 2pm, but the rest of the time has to be French. That seems fair enough to me, but I’d really feel better speaking French when I’m out in the city. Speaking English feels very conspicuous, and I hate standing out in the crowds. However, I think some people have a bigger language barrier than others. One girl told me that she just can’t seem to communicate what she wants to in French, and she’s really struggling with speaking French so often. On the other end, there’s a few students who were here last semester. One was even working as a waiter last summer (he hasn’t been home since last summer), and he just got thrown into speaking the language all the time. Another girl who was here last semester has been taking French for almost ten years (compared to my meager 5 and a half), and her accent is almost perfect. Either way, I’d really rather speak French more, but I can’t control the rest of the group very well.
I hope everyone at home is doing well. I miss the States a lot, especially everyone at
Days since skim milk: 10
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
First few days in France
I’m writing this Monday night, having finished my first day at L’Institut American.
My trip here was uneventful but exhausting nevertheless. I slept a grand total of maybe a half hour on the plane, and once in Charles De Gaulle, I had to wait about two hours for my train. I was quite pleased that I hadn’t opted with taking the later train, because that would’ve meant four hours of waiting there. Amelia, a girl who goes to
My host parents, Vincent and Monique, are very nice. Their children have all left home, but they visit often with the grandchildren. After I arrived at their house, I spoke with them for an hour or so, but then Madame encouraged me to take a nap. She promised she’d wake me at 7:30 so that I could eat dinner with them. I unpacked first because I was hesitant to sleep, but around 5:30 I gave in and crashed. Despite my usual tendency to worry as I fall asleep, I didn’t get much beyond worrying that I hadn’t brought an adapter that worked and worrying that I’d used ‘la traffique’, not ‘la circulation’ when I spoke with Monsieur. I then slept for, oh, some 15 hours. Madame said that when I didn’t respond to her knock, she decided to let me sleep, and I certainly did sleep.
She knocked again the next morning (Sunday) around 8:30, and I finally woke up then. The Merciers, their daughter, their grandson (Angel), and I went to Saintes Maries de la Mer. Saintes Maries is a town on the
We didn’t have classes today, just orientation (and I use that word very loosely). I arrived around 8:30 this morning, and I met a few other students before they started at 9. The director of the center spoke to use about security and the classes, and four students who were here last semester had other things to add. They had someone come in to hook our computers up to the internet there, and we were also able to buy used cell phones. I bought a phone for €20 just so that I can have one. I’m not sure how much I’ll use it, but it was cheap enough so that I don’t have to worry if something happens to it, and I still get the security of having a cell phone. We took a test so that the director knows where we are in relation to the others, and we then left for lunch at a crêperie. The crêpes were almost exactly the same as the café I was at yesterday, just a different type of cheese, and we also had a crêpe with Nutella for dessert (Yum!). I must confess, however, that if my choices are starving for lunch every day or getting more crêpes, it’s not going to take long for me to pick starving. It also won’t be difficult, as I haven’t been hungry once since arriving here. I’m not sure if it’s because I’m so overwhelmed with other things or because I haven’t been working out, but for whatever reason, I’ve had no desire for food. It also could be that because I don’t recognize any of the food, I don’t feel the need to eat it. After a lunch that lasted until 3pm (I almost went insane, especially considering that all the girls I ended up sitting by were from the same University and the same sorority within that University, so they talked about a lot of people I didn’t know), we returned to l’Institut. I went to a store called Monoprix with several others who had to buy school supplies, and after that we went to buy ‘les cartes des recherches’, or cards with minutes for cell phones on them. I still haven’t figured out how to use mine, but I’m going to ask people tomorrow. I went back to l’Institut once more, where I used the internet before leaving for home. Unfortunately, I got veryveryvery lost on my way home, and I had to return to l’Institut to get directions. Even after that, I spent about 45 more minutes wandering around my street and desperately trying to figure out where the house was. I finally arrived after being almost in tears and convinced that I’d be forced to spend my night on the streets.
In terms of language, I’m getting along pretty well. I can usually get across what I want to say, though I often have trouble understanding the fast-paced speaking of
Classes at l’Institut start tomorrow, and I’m very tempted to just go to sleep now. It’s been a long, long day. I’ll post this tomorrow morning, and I hope everyone at home is doing well.
Days since skim milk: 4
It’s now Tuesday morning, and I thought I’d add a bit more before I post this. I haven’t been feeling very well this morning, probably as a result of the weird foods. I bought some stamps on my way to class this morning, and that was quite successful. After that, I successfully managed to get lost again. I wandered around for about five minutes, trying to figure out exactly why the street I was on ended suddenly and which of the five other streets near by I should continue on. Much to my relief, another IAU student was walking by, and he showed me the way to l’Institut. Unfortunately, I’m not sure I’m going to remember it. I think part of the problem is that Monsieur showed me a slightly different route yesterday morning, so it’s quite tricky. I think I’ll be able to get home tonight, but whether or not I can find my way back to school tomorrow is a different story. My first class starts at 1:30 today, but I gave myself a lot of extra time to get lost and to have trouble buying stamps. I don’t finish class until 6pm every day, which is hard for me. I thought last semester was rough finishing at 3 every day, but that’s starting to feel like nothing. It does make some sense, since most people don’t eat dinner until 8, which is another adjustment in itself. No other news since last night other than my inability to find out where the heck I’m going.
Days since skim milk: 4.5